If you are using a 3rd party rim, then usually there is no problem looking up the ERD and offset specifications from the manufacturer or measuring them yourself. Nominal Diameter: This is just the nominal bike wheel size (26", 24", 700c etc).There is also comprehensive table of rim data at the FreeSpoke website. ERD: This is the most essential measurement for determining the spoke length required for a particular rim.It is only used for drawing purposes, and does not affect the spoke length calculations.
It is the diameter from where the very end of the spoke should sit in the laced up wheel. Generally speaking that is at the back of where the nipple fits in the rim.
700 EDGEVIEW DR HOW TO
YPedal had a decent photo page illustrating how to measure rim ERD yourself.
Right Offset: This it the distance from the center of the rim to the right side spoke holes.If the rim holes are not staggered, then it should be left at 0mm. Rim Width: This is the outer width of the rim and only affects the way that the rim is drawn in the edge view diagram, it is not involved in the spoke length calculations.Small geared hubs can be laced into large diameter (>26") rims with a double cross pattern OK, and large direct drive motors in small (30mm) will almost alway have a left and right spoke offset.Įven with a given rim and hub motor, there are still several ways you can go about lacing up the wheel, many of which will affect the required spoke length. If you have a motor with paired spoke holes, then a 0 cross pattern still has a spoke angle for transmitting torque, and there is no need for even single crossing the spokes. Left Elbow: This determines if the left spokes have their elbow inside the flange or outside the flange.With the elbow outside, you get better triangulation from the spokes and a slightly longer spoke length as well. We generally recommend elbows outside except in cases where you have a small rim diameter or need to facilitate dishing by having all left elbows in, and all right elbows out.
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